Forgotten mausoleums at the foot of a hill

Rajasthani and Mughal styled architecture is the hallmark of the structure

‘Show me your cemeteries and I will tell you what kind of people you have,” said Benjamin Franklin, the founding fathers of Unites States of America. If one were to go by this maxim, the citizens of Hyderabad need to be proud of themselves, for they have preserved their ancestors’ tombs with much love and care.

The mausoleums at the foot of the picturesque Moula Ali hill, is a case in point. There are three graveyards dating back to over 200 years.

Maula Ali as a whole is a heritage site, primarily due to the presence of the dargah which was founded during the reign of Ibrahim Qutub Shah. It is a holy dargah and the land around is considered sacred, so you find many graveyards.

Damam-e-Koohe-Maula Ali pahad as the street name suggests that abuts the foot of the hill.

Maqbare Rukn ud Dowla

It is a mausoleum named after Nawab Mir Mohammed yar Khan, who along with his brother Nawab Mir Ahmed yar Khan came from Iran. He was appointed by the Nizam to command an artillery division and later went on to become the first Prime Minister of Hyderabad Deccan. He was given the title Rukn-ud Dowla meaning pillar of state. Both brothers are buried here. The seventh generation of the family led by Syed Ahmed Hassan Khan is taking care of the graveyard that is filled with roses, jasmine flowers along with an ashoorkhana, a place to pray and mourn the dead. The family spent Rs 30 lakh for repairs.

Tomb of a great poetess

Tucked away in the narrow lanes amidst small asbestos sheet roofed houses and overflowing drains lies the tomb of a long forgotten poetess of her time Mahlaqa (1767-1824) also known as Chanda Bibi. With stepwells, pathways, waterways, dalans (open pavilions) and a majestic tomb right in the middle with intricate stucco work, an amalgam of Mughul and Rajasthani elements, the structure was restored thanks to the Centre for Deccan Studies (CDS) and Muslim Educational Social and Cultural Organisation (MESCO) and financial support from the United States Ambassadors Fund for Cultural preservation. Interestingly, the water layout and the channels, the garden in the Mughal pattern of charbagh is evident.

Moula Ali hill lit up for the annual festival
The Moula Ali kaman then
This arch still exists
Moula Ali resplendant
Vintage photograph
This is an entrance to another reminder of the past. The family of AMjad Ali Mumtaz Jung is now staying here
After it was restored in 2010
Rukn ud Dowla it is here the first Prime Minister of Hyderabad is buried
Falling apart and badly needs restoration

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